The week has flown by, spent exploring the local villages on the bikes, running through the pine forests from castle to castle and – a real highlight – having a dinner of rustic Catalan fare with an ex-Taylor Wessing colleague, Sarah Walshaw, and her husband Jose at their home in nearby Creixell, with produce from the nearby family farm. The starters included pan con tomate, a simple Spanish dish we both love, was served in typical Catalan style, with tomatoes that had been stored from the previous season, halved and simply smeared across the garlic coated toast and finished off with first press olive oil. The main course was a wonderfully simple rustic dish of artichokes, baby tomatoes and olive oil – delicious!
We were also lucky enough to be here for the beginning of the Castelleres season – a Catalan tradition where neighbouring villages compete to build human towers or “castells”. The tradition is so important that it’s been designated as among the “masterpieces of humanity” by UNESCO. We watched the reigning champions, from Vilafranca de Penedes, compete against Altafulla and St Pere i St Pau in the centre of Altafulla. A castell is built in two phases, first the base is formed using strong men, who both support the upper tiers, sustain the weight of the castle and form a safety net in case of tumbles. Then the people forming the upper layers climb into place, the music starts (traditional Toc de Castells music, played on the Catalan flute and drums) and the highest layers are built as quickly as possible. A castell is judged a success once it has been both assembled and disassembled without mishap and there needs to be continuous movement throughout the build. Additionally, once assembled, the “rider” or “enxaneta” who is the person – usually a young girl – who tops off the castle, has to raise one hand with four fingers out to show that the build is complete. The atmosphere was incredible and even as a spectator you felt a part of it all, holding your breath as the strong men at the bottom started shaking from the signifcant exertion, cheering successes as towers of up to 7 levels were formed and gasping in terror as one tower collapsed, sending the small girls in the top tier plummeting from the top of a 7 layer castle (only to be caught by those at the bottom). This was certainly one of our top experiences of the trip so far, and should be something added to the lists of things to see before you die!
We were amazed by the Castelleres and salivated over the meal which sounded simple but delicious – who needs more!
Europe seems so far away now but at least we’re on same time zone.
M and T.
We were so pleased to have caught the castelleres! It was also great catching up with Sarah – and a real treat to have dinner cooked for us.
We have wi-fi in the camp once again, so we must set up a time to Skype. Lots of love x
That meal sounded amazing. I am sure I would have been one of those dainty dudes near the top end of the tower.
Last day in Cape Town before move to Jozi. Look forward to seeing you dudes there.
Hope all goes well with the move xx
In The Folly drinking beer, where are you Lisky?
Hi Leigh & Lucy,
Those human towers look really exciting and it looks very sunny. Hopefully you enjoyed your meal with your friends and are having a brilliant time in Spain. Keep having fun on your travels and hope to see you soon.
Hey Joe – good to hear from you. You would have loved seeing the human towers; and no doubt would have been persuaded to be one of the people near the top! xx